At our most northerly point both of us called home on the Inmarsat satellite phone (still working at 79º 44N but only at sea when unblanketed by mountains)! Each got only the answerphone!
We are now beginning to retrace our route south, so first stop had to be to one of our favourites. We don't know what it is about Magdalene Fjord but once again, as we entered the fjord, the bleak weather of the past few days lifted, the sun came out and tranquility descended upon us. It is a most sublime spot. After a few chores, most notably to inspect underwater a loose bronze fitting on the propshaft (guess who got to do that one) we headed ashore for a meal very generously cooked for us by the two Sysselman's (Svalbard Governor's) Field Inspectors who spend the summer living in their isolated hut, policing and monitoring vessels of all types who enter the fjord. Halfway through the meal we were treated by the visit of a second polar bear to the beach where we had observed a different bear only four days before. This one was in far better shape. Plump, un-numbered and in fine fettle, it kept itself to itself and wandered off south along the beach to who knows where. Our grateful thanks to Audun and Oddmagne (the inspectors) for their generous hospitality, local advice and sharing of knowledge. For their part, they now describe the 'Atlantis effect'. Each visit of ours bringing a new bear to their doorstep.